Rorschach to Lauterbrunnen - Day 3 - Staubern to Unterwasser

Monday June 30, Staubern to Unterwasser 

This day was one of the most beautiful of our trip, with one stunning view after another. If you're seeking an easily accessible 1-3 day hike in Switzerland, I'd recommend including this stretch between the Staubernkanzel and the Kreuzberge.

Magnificent views await along this stretch down to and up from the Saxer Lücke pass 

Room with a view - sunrise

The hike began by going around the Staubernkanzel, the peak just behind the inn. Komoot users had warned that this section was exposed, so I was anxious in advance, but it turned out to be--like most if not all of the trails we followed in Switzerland--acrophobe-accommodating, with cables anchored to the rock face and occasional guardrails providing support as much psychological as physical.

Down below, the Fälensee looked healthily full

As we continued along the ridge toward the Hochhus, the wildflowers and geology both became increasingly effusive...

Hochhus

Past the Hochhus, we hiked down to the the Saxer Lücke pass...

Dense flora

Regular signage along the trail from at least Hoher Kasten all the way to Saxer Lücke explained the geology of the Alpstein massif.

Kreuzberge / Chrüzberg 

Enjoying the views from the pass were more grazing sheep than I've ever seen in one place...

A fraction of the critters grazing in the gap..

The initial climb up from the pass was steep and somewhat exposed; anchored cables helped.

Because Seilbahnen to Hoher Kasten and the Staubern Inn make the ridge easily accessible, we encountered many other hikers on our way to the pass. Surprisingly, we had the trail entirely to ourselves between the Saxer Lücke and up to the next pass above the Kreuzberge, we had the trail entirely to ourselves. 

Stone walls and remnants thereof were a common sight over the next several days 

We hiked up, up, up past the Kreuzberge. From afar, we spotted a group of climbers heading up the side of one of the summits.

Arches in Kreuzberg V:

Almost at the pass, we crossed a patch of soft snow. We did not bring micro spikes with us this year, and never needed them, but the Graupel we encountered on Day 11 atop the Jochpass indicated that weather in the Alps is unpredictable enough that they'd be smart to have along.

Looking back at the Kreuzberg peaks:

Looking ahead toward the Churfirsten:

It was a steep hike down through rocky meadows and past several large herds of cows and a veritable shitload of cow patties until the trail yielded to gravel road at the Tesel Alm. We paused for a self-serve Apfelschorle (plucked from a trough filled with water to keep drinks cool to luke warm in the bright sunlight) before continuing down down down to Unterwasser.

Cows checking out the passersby on the outskirts of town

Ta da! 10.4 miles and 2,125' elevation gain, 4,400' descent.

Rorschach to Lauterbrunnen - Day 2 - Gais to Berggasthaus Staubern

Sunday June 29, Gais to Berggasthaus Staubern

While we were eating dinner Saturday evening in Gais, we thought about our knees, the unanticipated strenuousness of that day's 4,100 feet elevation gain, and the 4,300 ft ascent planned for Sunday. We took a look at our map, and noticed there was a Seilbahn in (reltaively) nearby Brülisau that could take us to Hohen Kasten atop the Alpstein massif and knock 2,600 ft off our ascent. 

Between Saturday evening and Sunday morning, we mentioned this to three different staff members at the Gasthof where we were staying. They already thought we were crazy for having hiked all the way from Rorschach, and all three thought we'd have a much more pleasant time taking the lift than hiking all the way up. One reassured us that the hike to Brülisau itself wasn't exactly a walk in the park.

We didn't make a final decision until we were literally at the fork in the road: going straight meant hiking up all the way, while turning right meant hiking down to Brülisau and taking the lift. We turned right.

Evidence of spiders at work below the Faehnerenspitz

Can you spot Brülisau down in the valley?

We like to watch them, they like to watch us...

Hiking down to Brülisau, we noticed a natural arch in the rock wall to the south.

Can you spot the arch?

Entering Brülisau

Time for immersion therapy:

Unlike me, S is not acrophobic. I was happy to spare my knees the workout, but mostly kept my eyes closed on the ride up.

I opened them long enough to turn around and take a photo... 

From atop Hoher Kasten (5,875'), we had expansive views to the Bodensee to the north and the Rhine flood plain to the south.

The Rhine flows in tightly controlled channels in population-dense areas 

After admiring the views and pausing for a scenic lunch, we continued our hike. For the rest of the afternoon, we mostly followed the ridge, and alternated having views to the south and the north--and occasionally had views in both directions at once.

 

Water levels in the Sämtisersee were noticeably low...

Pasque flowers

iNaturalist says this diminutive thang is Great Masterwort

Our destination for the evening: the Berggasthaus Staubern, with views into the valleys both north and south of the ridge.

Room with a view

The inn is accessible by Seilbahn from Frümsen in the Rhine river valley, and a small crowd arrived around dinnertime. They stood outside chatting and taking photographs. Motivated by this potential audience, a paraglider sailed over and for a good 10-15 minutes provided an aerobatic performance just a few meters away.

Ta da! 6.87 miles and 1,923' elevation gain from Gais to Brülisau, and 3.25 miles and 1,083' elevation gain from Hoher Kasten to Staubern.