Basel to Staufen Day 0 - CH to F to D

S and I arrived in Steinebach last Thursday, and on Friday a brief but potent thunderstorm felled a 60-foot tree in the woods down the hill, blocking the road and snapping the telephone and wifi cables. After we spent a few hours wondering whom we could borrow a chain saw from, a friend told us that when a tree falls across a road in Germany, you call the fire department. So S called, and the volunteer firefighters zoomed up from the lakeside music fest where they had been hanging out, and they chopped up the section of tree blocking the road. That commotion brought out a neighbor at the bottom of the hill, who volunteered his son and his son's chainsaws to help a growing group of menfolk clear the part of the trunk that was blocking another neighbor's driveway.

Road blocked

Branches stripped and logs ready to roll in neighbor's driveway

On Monday, we took a train to the nearest competent Deutsche Telekom shop (which is farther away than the nearest incompetent one, which we tried first) to pick up a mobile hotspot device to tide us over until the cables can be repaired.

All of which is to say, I'm tardy reporting on hikes and walks, but I have excuses. And check this out: my first 100-mile week of 2024! (Required a 10:30pm 1.6 mile walk between downpours to top it off--such is the thrill of seeing that 1 in the hundreds place.)

We're heading out for this summer's long hike in two days, so the walks so far are either going to get blogged about today and tomorrow, or not at all.

Here's a start.

Monday June 3, Basel to Staufen, Day 0: 

S had a conference in Basel, so we flew to Zurich and took a train to Basel. After checking into our hotel, we went for a 7-mile walk, because we've finally learned that the best way to overcome jetlag quickly is to spend a few hours walking in daylight as soon as possible. 

We chose this particular route so we could truthfully say "today we walked from Switzerland to France to Germany and back." The Germany part was important, because while S was busy chatting with colleagues about state-of-the-art nanoparticle science, I was going to spend 2.5 days walking north to Staufen. Getting the first few miles out of the way in advance meant I could hop on a train the next morning and start from Weil am Rhein.

Switzerland to France to Germany to Switzerland

Basel Rathaus

We had been following the news about heavy flooding in Southern Germany, so it wasn't a surprise that the Rhine was overrunning its banks in Basel. Note the submerged sidewalk: 

Can you see the sidewalk?

S in two countries at once

Although we didn't pick up on it until we entered France, our river route covered much of the Dreyland Dichter Weg (Three Countries Poets Path), featuring bronze-cast poems in the border-crossing language Allemannisch. You can hear Georges Zink's Karfukelstai in Allemannisch and read an English translation here...

...and the song S Gedanggeliedli vo däm wo hätt by Aernschd Born, sung and translated, here. The song ends with "He had a heart," leaving it to the reader/listener to fill in the audible blank that follows. (I'm going with "but did not love, and yet he was not...something..." thump thump, thump thump, thump thump...)

The Dreilaenderbruecke (Three Countries Bridge) connects Huningue, France, to Weil am Rhein, Germany. Switzerland is a mere 200m to the south on the east side of the river (to the right beyond the photo below). At the time of its construction in 2006, it was the longest pedestrian and bicycle arch bridge in the world.

Back in Switzerland, boom blooms.

Some photos of the Holzpark Klybeck (Klybeck Wood Park), a place for "creative ideas, urban wilderness, and dancing freedom" since 2014:

We crossed the Rhine again in Basel. The Mittlere Rheinbruecke (middle Rhine bridge) is the oldest bridge in Basel, and in the 15th-17th centuries, Christian zealots found it a convenient spot from which to toss chained-up scapegoats (a.k.a. witches) into the Rhine. In 2019, Basel erected an apologetic plaque ("Basel commemorates the people who were accused of witchcraft, persecuted, tortured and killed in previous centuries. Today, this is a place that reminds us to meet other people without prejudice and not to exclude them").

"Basel" sounds a lot like "Basilisk," but the names are probably unrelated. Once folks made the homophonic connection in the mid 15th century, Basilisk art caught on, and now they're hard to miss around town.

Freiburg and vicinity photo dump

Elias joined us in Freiburg eight days ago, and tomorrow he and I start an 8-day hike to the Bodensee. We'll be following the historic Querweg most of the way. Created in 1935, the route is typically hiked in seven or eight days, from Freiburg to Konstanz. We're adjusting the route at the end by taking a ferry from Wallhausen to Ueberlingen, where Stefan will pick us up. By dropping Konstanz and crossing the lake, we'll save him about an hour of driving.

Unlike the weather forecasts in Bayern 3.5 weeks ago, the forecast for this week in Baden Wuerttemberg is looking sunny--and quite warm. I'll be trading out my long-sleeved shirts and jackets for sleeveless Ts and a lot of sunscreen.

E and I took several beautiful hikes this past week, most of which were longer than most of our Querweg days, so we're feeling decently prepared. 

These included a hike to Staufen...

We saw mounds and mounds of dandelion floof en route to Staufen

Measuring the dandelions...

Komoot told us to go 20 meters past the bridge, cross the creek, then backtrack
20 meters on the other side to meet the point where the bridge crosses the creek.

But why...?

Alchemist Dr. Faust perished when he blew up his hotel room in Staufen.

Burgruine

...and a hike over the Rosskopf to Sankt Peter...

I climbed the first flight of stairs for proof of
concept; Elias climbed all the way to the top.

Green energy atop Rosskopf

E says in the U.S., these would be Little Free Libraries...

...and a relatively short but strenuous hike up the local mountain, Schauinsland.

Beware: tree branches can fall in the woods.

When there's a good view down, E does this thing...

...where he tosses rocks in the air and takes photos of them.

The trail was pretty steep in places. We ascended 0.7 miles over ~9.5 miles.

I climbed halfway up this lookout tower, which was
possible due to a complex loophole in the Rules of Acrophobia. 

View from the restaurant at the top.
Germany often has restaurants at the tops of places. 

Stefan took the Seilbahn up.

We took the Seilbahn down together. There are detailed rules
about cable travel too in my unwritten Rules of Acrophobia.

One other hiking highlight of the week: fabulous tree sculptures by Thomas Rees on the Skulpturenpfad WaldMenschen between Freiburg and Guenterstal.