Wednesday, July 16, 2025

Rorschach to Lauterbrunnen - Day 3 - Staubern to Unterwasser

Monday June 30, Staubern to Unterwasser 

This day was one of the most beautiful of our trip, with one stunning view after another. If you're seeking an easily accessible 1-3 day hike in Switzerland, I'd recommend including this stretch between the Staubernkanzel and the Kreuzberge.

Magnificent views await along this stretch down to and up from the Saxer Lücke pass 

Room with a view - sunrise

The hike began by going around the Staubernkanzel, the peak just behind the inn. Komoot users had warned that this section was exposed, so I was anxious in advance, but it turned out to be--like most if not all of the trails we followed in Switzerland--acrophobe-accommodating, with cables anchored to the rock face and occasional guardrails providing support as much psychological as physical.




Down below, the Fälensee looked healthily full

As we continued along the ridge toward the Hochhus, the wildflowers and geology both became increasingly effusive...


Hochhus


Past the Hochhus, we hiked down to the the Saxer Lücke pass...

Dense flora

Regular signage along the trail from at least Hoher Kasten all the way to Saxer Lücke explained the geology of the Alpstein massif.


Kreuzberge / Chrüzberg 

Enjoying the views from the pass were more grazing sheep than I've ever seen in one place...


A fraction of the critters grazing in the gap..

The initial climb up from the pass was steep and somewhat exposed; anchored cables helped.


Because Seilbahnen to Hoher Kasten and the Staubern Inn make the ridge easily accessible, we encountered many other hikers on our way to the pass. Surprisingly, we had the trail entirely to ourselves between the Saxer Lücke and up to the next pass above the Kreuzberge, we had the trail entirely to ourselves. 

Stone walls and remnants thereof were a common sight over the next several days 

We hiked up, up, up past the Kreuzberge. From afar, we spotted a group of climbers heading up the side of one of the summits.



Arches in Kreuzberg V:





Almost at the pass, we crossed a patch of soft snow. We did not bring micro spikes with us this year, and never needed them, but the Graupel we encountered on Day 11 atop the Jochpass indicated that weather in the Alps is unpredictable enough that they'd be smart to have along.


Looking back at the Kreuzberg peaks:



Looking ahead toward the Churfirsten:



It was a steep hike down through rocky meadows and past several large herds of cows and a veritable shitload of cow patties until the trail yielded to gravel road at the Tesel Alm. We paused for a self-serve Apfelschorle (plucked from a trough filled with water to keep drinks cool to luke warm in the bright sunlight) before continuing down down down to Unterwasser.

Cows checking out the passersby on the outskirts of town

Ta da! 10.4 miles and 2,125' elevation gain, 4,400' descent.


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