Showing posts with label copenhagen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label copenhagen. Show all posts

Monday, August 24, 2009

Botanical gardens and statues

Most of Copenhagen's government-run museums are closed on Mondays, and as the weather was glorious today, Elias and I spent the entire afternoon at the Botanical Gardens. A royal charter established the gardens in 1600; the current garden plan dates to 1867. After watching an illiterate fer'ner get chewed out by garden staff for actually loafing on the grass, we decided to take our own brief snooze on a bench.

Copenhagen is a city of statues, whether inside museums such as the Glyptotek, or outside in the spacious gardens and numerous squares. The most curious statue we saw in the Botanical Gardens was one of Athena giving a big thumbs-up to a centaur's patina-free private parts. The statue's obvious classicism and the bucolic setting suggested it was supposed to edify rather than raise eyebrows. Indeed, a little Googling reveals that the ancients often depicted Athena, goddess of wisdom, with a centaur, to contrast reason with man's savage tendencies. But still....

On our walk home, we came across a statue entitled "Nilen," featuring a bearded male with fifteen of those frighteningly precocious babies clambering over him. Additional Googling reveals the bronze is a copy of an ancient Roman sculpture at the Vatican. I hope it is some consolation to the Danish to suppose "The Nile" might have inspired Nielsen's "Water Mother."

Copenhagen's statuary is by no means limited to classical themes. Generations of Danish royalty can be found in various spots around town, as can three Hans Christian Andersens. An imposing equestrian statue of Copenhagen's founder, the warrior bishop Absalon (1128-1201), stands high above Højbro Plads. Before Copenhagen could be founded, of course, the island on which it rests--Zealand--had to be ploughed out of Sweden overnight by the Norse goddess Gefion. Fortunately, she was able to turn her four brawny sons into oxen to handle the job, a feat memorialized in Langlinie park.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Glyptotek

Carl Jacobsen, the Danish beer magnate who commissioned the Little Mermaid statue, also founded the Copenhagen Glyptotek, where we spent most of our time today. The highlights, for us, included the large collections of Greek and Roman statuary, the French impressionist and post-impressionist sculptures and paintings, and a string quartet concert (Mendelssohn and Beethoven) we happened upon at just the right time.

The central rotunda at the Glyptotek is called the Winter Garden, filled with sunlight and subtropical plants. Situated near the garden's entrance is a koi pond with a disturbing statue by Danish sculptor Kai Nielsen (1882-1924). Entitled "The Water Mother" (1921), the statue depicts a vacant-faced woman with fourteen squirming, foetus-like babies crawling up from the water to suck the life force out of her. The baby with the bizarrely big head, sitting precociously upright on the mother's arm and holding an apple, is supposed to be Venus.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

The Little Mermaid

There's nothing that says "I've been there" better than standing with 50 other tourists trying to capture the perfect shot of an iconic statue that's been photographed thousands of times a day, every day of the year, for the past several decades. The Little Mermaid--the graceful statue sculpted by Edvard Eriksen and unveiled at Copenhagen's Langelinie wharf exactly 96 years ago tomorrow--has, alas, suffered physical abuse as silently as her prose counterpart. Having been decapitated twice, she now has a neck filled with concrete to keep evil-doers at bay (and precluding the need for a "Forurening forbudt" plaque, which would detract from the photographs).

You know you've found all the right tourist spots when you start recognizing the other visitors.





Friday, August 21, 2009

Copenhagen*

Yesterday we drove to Strasbourg International Airport, a place that, apart from the International bit and the lack of an ornamental reflection pond, could easily be mistaken for the airport of my childhood: Willard Airport in scenic Savoy, Illinois. This similarity, coupled with a 20-minute absence of check-in personnel beneath a sign flashing "Check-in Ongoing" for multiple flights, had me in smug giggles for a good half hour. Later, just before our shuttle bus departed for the tarmac, a flight attendant dashed breathlessly on board carrying a toddler. "Ha ha," laughed the other nine people on the bus, "oui, that little girl is ours! How funny that we forgot her in the airport!"

From Strasbourg, we flew to Copenhagen, capital of Denmark, where Stefan is meeting up with research collaborators at the university. One of our first observations about this lovely city is that the Danish not only think water out of a tap is potable, they think it's worth drinking. They even give it out without comment and for free at restaurants! In exchange for this free-flowing libationary excess, we are learning to calculate the Copenhagen cost of a meal by multiplying whatever a reasonable cost might be by the number 5.

*Not in Southern Germany.