If one remembered to bring one's bathing suit (which, of course, we didn't), where would one go for a thermal cure around here? Scenic Badenweiler, of course! This morning, we drove 30 km south to this posh tourists' mecca, merely looking for non-rain. We realized it was a vacation destination when we noticed all the people out and about and all the stores open for business--in Germany on a SUNDAY.
Folks have been enjoying mineral cures in Badenweiler for at least a few millennia. The name "Badenweiler" means "Bath town;" the Romans, who also knew the pleasures of a good hot soak, had called it Aquae Villae. ("Villa" and "Weiler" are etymologically related; the German and Roman names mean the same thing.) In addition to access to the toasty hotsprings, the location provided the Romans with a strategically advantageous view of the upper Rhine Valley. Celts who were living in the area before the arrival of the Romans were assimilated into the town.
The ruins of an elaborate Roman bathhouse were unearthed in the 1780s. An excavated stone indicates the spa was dedicated to the goddess Diana Abnoba--a name that blends the Roman goddess of the hunt (Diana) with the Celtic goddess of the Black Forest (Abnoba). Today, the ruins are protected from the elements under a huge, arched glass ceiling.
No strategically advantageous view of the upper Rhine Valley would be complete, of course, without a 12th-century Burg built by the local nobility (Zaehringers, in this case), destroyed by angry peasants during the Bauernkrieg of 1524-25, further trampled during the Thirty Years' War, and rebuilt in the 17th century before being emphatically and permanently pounded back down by the French (1678). Yadda yadda, same ol', same ol'--and yet, how they beckon! Elias gave them a B+ (good variety, but not as extensive as
Hochburg).
Badenweiler rests beneath the 1165m Blauen, so we decided to take a quick hike up to the peak. As is often the case, our "quick hike" morphed into an almost 10-mile trek through multiple ecological and climatological zones and ever-changing weather conditions. Our initial ascent was under bright sunshine with intermittent rain that shifted into fog. By the time we reached the Wirtshaus (inn) at the top of the Blauen, we were tromping through a few inches of snow. Elias, who hadn't been so thrilled by the steep climb, was beside himself with glee, thanks to the snowball lobbing opportunities.
After refreshing ourselves with nutritious ice cream and french fries, we continued along the ridge to the neighboring Stockberg (1076m), site of more ruins. Sometime around the birth of Christ, plus or minus 500 years, the Celts built a
circular stone wall up there, possibly for use as a lunar observatory (according to our little
Badische Zeitung pocket hiking guide). Given that these ruins are about three times as old as the Burg Badenweiler ruins down below, it was no wonder they were a little more ramshackle.
By the time we made it to Stockberg, it was surprisingly late, and we were worried about getting out of the woods before the sun set. We picked up the pace, and Elias earned major brownie points for his endurance and good cheer.
The second ruins on our pilgrimage today were the Ruinen Hochburg, which put all the other ruins we've visited so far to shame. While most ruins make you think about how cold, cramped, damp, and dark life must have been high up on that isolated hill, Hochburg makes you think about what skilled artisans those stonemasons were, and what nice views those rich folks must have had out the windows of their multiple third-story privies. (Which reminds me to mention that Elias's current favorite bathroom reading material is The Economist. It's in English and has pictures.)
Hochburg is situated on a large hill covered with apple orchards, woods, and vineyards, located outside the town of Sexau, near Waldkirch. According to our Badische Zeitung pocket hiking guide, written documents first refered to Hochburg as early as 1127. Unlike Kastelburg, which changed lineal hands multiple times, the Margraves of Baden-Hachberg owned and expanded on the site from the 12th century until the 1600s. In 1636, during the Thirty Years' War, Habsburg troops conquered and destroyed the bastion. The margrave Friedrich VI had the castle rebuilt beginning in 1660, but his successors vacated and destroyed the new fortifications to prevent an attack by the French in 1681. In 1684, the upper portion caught fire; and in 1688 the French occupied the site and demolished what was left.
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