Saturday, June 20, 2026

A photo a day 2026, plus or minus

I joined Stefan in Dresden on May 29 and spent most of my copious free time walking up a storm. With just two days left before we head out on this summer's long-distance hike, it's time to put some of those memories into pixels.

Friday May 29, Dresden moonrise:


Saturday May 30, hike from Rathen to Wehlen with a subset of the research-exchange student cohort:

View of Elbe from Bastei

The trail was 16 times longer than 1 infinity

Sunday May 31, a hike up the hill S of Dresden to Bannewitz...



...and a stellar concert at the Dresdner Philharmonie featuring Stefan's favorite clarinetist:


Monday June 1, it's a new month and I'm now on the Deutschland Ticket, next to free, free, free as a bird! One of the grad students told me about a nearby castle built atop basalt columns, so I hiked from Stadt Wehlen to Stolpen. This also gave me a chance to hike the Teufels Grund in the Saechsicsche Schweiz National Park, which our weary group of hikers had felt too weary to explore on Saturday.

I squeezed through this nook on my hands and knees.

Teufelskammer


Burg Stolpen, no time to stop before catching a bus

Tuesday-Thursday, June 2-4, hiked from Hřensko to Herrnhut. This will get its own post.

Friday June 5, with a 100-mile week within my grasp, I looped to the Blaue Wunder and back:

Bubble action in Dresden Altstadt

Snazzy estates line the right bank of the Elbe

Saturday June 6, we hiked the Caspar-David-Friedrich-Weg with S's colleague Joe, revisiting the Wolfsberg and Kaiserkrone and adding in Zirkelstein. 

Look, up ahead--the rock in C.D.Friedrich's "Two Men Contemplating the Moon"

Two Men Contemplating the Trees

We made up for failing to notice these rocks last year 

Sunday June 7, a walk in the morning to the Bienertpark to knock out a few more miles, then a superlative performance of Die Zauberfloete at the Semperoper with the student cohort. (This was a much more dynamic performance than the bland rendition we saw with Elias in 2012). 


Monday June 8, I spent almost the entire day inside fretting over a 2-sentence bio that I had to submit for a Big Deal Thing coming up this fall. Reddit indicates others have similar bio anxiety.

Tuesday June 9, I walked to Moritzburg, yet another castle. The route was pretty much a straight shot north from Dresden, and it says something that passing a yard infested with garden gnomes was one of the day's highlights.




Wednesday June 10: It had occurred to me on the way back from Herrnhut that I had missed an opportunity to walk to Poland, so I took a train to Görlitz, Germany's easternmost town. This will get its own blog post later. 

Thursday June 11, I spent most of the afternoon revisiting the Albertinum, then went to hear a delicate violoncello + cembalo concert with S at the Palais im Rosengarten. 

Not Friedrich's best rock...



Edouard Leonhardi, Waldeinsamkeit, captures the Elbsandsteingebirge far better than my cellphone camera can 

Waldhexe ca. 1898 by Julie Wolfthorn, "a committed campaigner for equal rights"

Palais

Weathered chic interior

Friday-Sunday June 10-12, Berlin. Cohort was at Max Planck Institut in Potsdam on Friday, so I went for a long walk, then attended the first half of Carmen at the Deutsche Oper.

Friedrichswerdersche Kirche is now a sculpture gallery. Apologies to Eve for cutting off her head, but I wanted to capture vexed toddler Abel

The Queen of the Night's starry set was designed by K.F. Schinkel, who also designed the church housing the exhibit

Missed 'em last year, found 'em this year

Erected 2016, when folks acknowledged men don't exist in a vacuum 

The pre-overture backdrop: a flayed bull's head. I left at intermission, after
Don Jose butchered Zuniga's kidneys for Carmen's organ-smuggling ring (wait, what?).

Monday June 13, I spent our last full day in Dresden outside of Dresden. In the morning, S joined me for a loop hike from Rathen to the Wolfsschlucht. In the afternoon, I took a train to Meißen, which we had visited in 2012 but I had few memories of other than that I have no affinity for factory-made porcelain. Meißen will get its own post, because ooh ah, apparently I saved the best for last.

In höchster Not, Kurort Rathen edition








Wednesday, June 17, 2026

We're hiking to the ocean!

Stefan says "it's not the ocean, it's the sea."

In the tradition of our long hikes, this year's grand adventure links up with a previous one. On Saturday, we'll take a train to Brixen; on Sunday, a bus and gondola lift to Seceda; and from there, we'll spend seventeen days hiking to Trieste, on the Adriatic sea.


Feltre, where we claimed to have reached the foothills of the Alps in 2024, is in the southwest tail of that pale patch due south of the second to sixth black dots of our pending route, meaning we are not taking the most efficient path from Steinebach to the ocean sea, but we think it will be more interesting and hopefully a little cooler than tromping through the plains of Friuli in mid-July. 

Komoot predicts our route is about 207 miles, 39,550' elevation gain, and 47,400' descent. Tune in mid-July to find out if Garmin agrees.

Tuesday, April 7, 2026

Spring break visit

S had a conference in Munich in early march, so we took advantage of cheap airfares and spring break and visited the family abode together. I'd heard tell of the crocuses that bloom in the yard in the spring, but this was the first time I'd gotten to see them in person.


Spring snowflakes (Leucojum vernum) and common snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) were also blooming  all across Bavaria. 



Some highlights:

Friday 3/13: The obligatory first-day hike to Herrsching, to get out in the sun and reset the circadian clocks:



A story waiting for a separate post: the life-saver without a boat in the Busgarage without a bus...


Saturday: Obligatory walk to Andechs (can you spot it in the distance on the ridge line to the right of the road?)


Bavaria is not known for whiskey, but there's a distillery on our favorite route to Andechs. A few years ago, as we walked by on our obligatory walk to Andechs, it occurred to us to knock, and we ended up buying a tasty honey-whiskey liqueur. This year we were hoping to replenish our supply, and wouldn't you know it, when we were about a quarter of a mile away, a distillery van drove past us and parked in the distillery driveway; and when we were about 250 feet away, the van started to pull out of the driveway--so I ran ahead, and asked if we might make a quick purchase. The owner was happy to oblige; he only happened to be there because he'd had to feed the sheep.

Speaking of speaking German, that's another topic for another post...  


At Andechs, we tanked up on Obazda and Brez'n. No daikon, because it wasn't in season yet.


Sunday: trip into Munich for the last day of the "Wildlife Photographer of the Year" exhibit at the Museum Mensch und Natur. In addition to the fancypants glowing images of the official show, the museum had an adjacent print exhibit of work by German kids that was just as entertaining and easier on the eyes... 



The government subsidized Deutschland Ticket, which covers all ground-based mass transit except fast-speed rail, has gone up in price again to €63. This is still a steal, but we felt a need to take advantage of it. So on Monday, we took a train to Donauwörth and hiked along the Romantische Straße to Harburg. We had both forgotten that we'd actually been to Donauwörth previously--in 2023, with E and A, on our way to Solnhofen to go fossil digging--which just goes to show that if I don't blog about it, it's like it never happened... Probably says something about the Romantische Straße that the most interesting photo I took was this one:


Tuesday: Since the Alps are only 1.5 - 2 hours away by train and the weather was good, S decided to go skiing on Tuesday. I rode the train south with him, got off in Oberau, and hiked to Kloster Ettal and then to Schloss Linderhof. The day began with Nebelmeer in Steinebach... 


...then brilliant sunshine in Ettal...





...and Linderhof, where the garden was all boxed up against the winter elements.



Wednesday: Did I mention that we had Covid? I caught it in the U.S. shortly before our trip, and then S caught it. We would have assumed it was just a cold had it not included a low-grade fever. This iteration was much more tolerable than the first time we had it, but it meant delaying visiting 103-yr-old Tante P until we were reasonably confident we weren't still contagious. We took mass transit to FFB to attend to some international tax law questions, then mass transit to Zankenhausen to visit P; and then we walked home.

Thursday: We walked to Etterschlag for lunch with family, then walked to Weßling for a sneak peek at a long-lost family artifact (subject for another blog post).

Friday: By the time S had figured out his conference was going to be in Munich instead of the usual Utah, the family abode had already been AirBnB-ed for one of the weekends of our stay. This motivated us to rent a car for that weekend and drive to Zurich to hear Cecilia Bartoli, Anna Sophie von Otter, and not one, not two, but THREE countertenors (including stand-out Kangmin Justin Kim) singing Giulio Cesare in Egitto at the Zurich opera. 


Saturday: We spent a rainy morning in Zurich at the Kunsthaus, where this Picasso face reminded me of the Geefle.



Snow was falling by the time we headed north to Konstanz, where neither of us had ever been, and where hotels cost way less than in Zurich.

Sunday: We set out for a morning constitutional, then decided what the heck, let's walk to Mainau, the "flower island" in the Bodensee north of Konstanz, where we appreciated the off-season price and off-season non-crowds.

Highlights included the butterfly house...





...and a walk through the arboretum and sculpture gardens.


For the past 25 years or so, we've had a postcard from the Berlin Alte Nationalgalerie hanging in our downstairs bathroom. It depicts Gustav Eberlein's 1879 marble copy of the Hellenistic-Roman bronze Lo Spinario. In the 19th century, it was a popular work to copy in bronze--presumably before Eberlein copied it in marble--so it was nice to see one of those copies on Mainau.  


We took a bus back to Konstanz's Altstadt...








...before driving back to Steinebach.

At about 11:30 p.m., United Airlines texted to say "storms! On the East Coast! We're waiving rescheduling fees!", which I thought meant "you'll be stuck in airports all day/night if you try to fly home tomorrow," so I delayed flying home by a day. This meant missing a class I was supposed to teach at Claymakers, but it also meant that after I got off the phone with United's customer service line at 1:00 a.m., I was awake at 1:15 when S went into the kitchen and there was a loud bang followed by much cursing. Apparently the oil stove that heats the house hadn't been properly maintained in, oh, probably a few years, and the soot exploded. We were glad it happened while we were there instead of when renters were there, and glad no one was hurt. We did some preliminary cleaning, then went to bed.

Monday: S went to his conference, and I went to Edeka to get a refill of this fabulous cleaner:


...and then ran a few loads of dishes and systematically wiped as much soot off of things as I could. When S came home, he vacuumed some of the shelves that needed dead bugs vacuumed before cleaning. The kitchen ended up cleaner than it had been in years, and S found someone to fix the stove later that week.


The flight home was much less exciting...