Tuesday, April 7, 2026

Spring break visit

S had a conference in Munich in early march, so we took advantage of cheap airfares and spring break and visited the family abode together. I'd heard tell of the crocuses that bloom in the yard in the spring, but this was the first time I'd gotten to see them in person.


Spring snowflakes (Leucojum vernum) and common snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) were also blooming  all across Bavaria. 



Some highlights:

Friday 3/13: The obligatory first-day hike to Herrsching, to get out in the sun and reset the circadian clocks:



A story waiting for a separate post: the life-saver without a boat in the Busgarage without a bus...


Saturday: Obligatory walk to Andechs (can you spot it in the distance on the ridge line to the right of the road?)


Bavaria is not known for whiskey, but there's a distillery on our favorite route to Andechs. A few years ago, as we walked by on our obligatory walk to Andechs, it occurred to us to knock, and we ended up buying a tasty honey-whiskey liqueur. This year we were hoping to replenish our supply, and wouldn't you know it, when we were about a quarter of a mile away, a distillery van drove past us and parked in the distillery driveway; and when we were about 250 feet away, the van started to pull out of the driveway--so I ran ahead, and asked if we might make a quick purchase. The owner was happy to oblige; he only happened to be there because he'd had to feed the sheep.

Speaking of speaking German, that's another topic for another post...  


At Andechs, we tanked up on Obazda and Brez'n. No daikon, because it wasn't in season yet.


Sunday: trip into Munich for the last day of the "Wildlife Photographer of the Year" exhibit at the Museum Mensch und Natur. In addition to the fancypants glowing images of the official show, the museum had an adjacent print exhibit of work by German kids that was just as entertaining and easier on the eyes... 



The government subsidized Deutschland Ticket, which covers all ground-based mass transit except fast-speed rail, has gone up in price again to €63. This is still a steal, but we felt a need to take advantage of it. So on Monday, we took a train to Donauwörth and hiked along the Romantische Straße to Harburg. We had both forgotten that we'd actually been to Donauwörth previously--in 2023, with E and A, on our way to Solnhofen to go fossil digging--which just goes to show that if I don't blog about it, it's like it never happened... Probably says something about the Romantische Straße that the most interesting photo I took was this one:


Tuesday: Since the Alps are only 1.5 - 2 hours away by train and the weather was good, S decided to go skiing on Tuesday. I rode the train south with him, got off in Oberau, and hiked to Kloster Ettal and then to Schloss Linderhof. The day began with Nebelmeer in Steinebach... 


...then brilliant sunshine in Ettal...





...and Linderhof, where the garden was all boxed up against the winter elements.



Wednesday: Did I mention that we had Covid? I caught it in the U.S. shortly before our trip, and then S caught it. We would have assumed it was just a cold had it not included a low-grade fever. This iteration was much more tolerable than the first time we had it, but it meant delaying visiting 103-yr-old Tante P until we were reasonably confident we weren't still contagious. We took mass transit to FFB to attend to some international tax law questions, then mass transit to Zankenhausen to visit P; and then we walked home.

Thursday: We walked to Etterschlag for lunch with family, then walked to Weßling for a sneak peek at a long-lost family artifact (subject for another blog post).

Friday: By the time S had figured out his conference was going to be in Munich instead of the usual Utah, the family abode had already been AirBnB-ed for one of the weekends of our stay. This motivated us to rent a car for that weekend and drive to Zurich to hear Cecilia Bartoli, Anna Sophie von Otter, and not one, not two, but THREE countertenors (including stand-out Kangmin Justin Kim) singing Giulio Cesare in Egitto at the Zurich opera. 


Saturday: We spent a rainy morning in Zurich at the Kunsthaus, where this Picasso face reminded me of the Geefle.



Snow was falling by the time we headed north to Konstanz, where neither of us had ever been, and where hotels cost way less than in Zurich.

Sunday: We set out for a morning constitutional, then decided what the heck, let's walk to Mainau, the "flower island" in the Bodensee north of Konstanz, where we appreciated the off-season price and off-season non-crowds.

Highlights included the butterfly house...





...and a walk through the arboretum and sculpture gardens.


For the past 25 years or so, we've had a postcard from the Berlin Alte Nationalgalerie hanging in our downstairs bathroom. It depicts Gustav Eberlein's 1879 marble copy of the Hellenistic-Roman bronze Lo Spinario. In the 19th century, it was a popular work to copy in bronze--presumably before Eberlein copied it in marble--so it was nice to see one of those copies on Mainau.  


We took a bus back to Konstanz's Altstadt...








...before driving back to Steinebach.

At about 11:30 p.m., United Airlines texted to say "storms! On the East Coast! We're waiving rescheduling fees!", which I thought meant "you'll be stuck in airports all day/night if you try to fly home tomorrow," so I delayed flying home by a day. This meant missing a class I was supposed to teach at Claymakers, but it also meant that after I got off the phone with United's customer service line at 1:00 a.m., I was awake at 1:15 when S went into the kitchen and there was a loud bang followed by much cursing. Apparently the oil stove that heats the house hadn't been properly maintained in, oh, probably a few years, and the soot exploded. We were glad it happened while we were there instead of when renters were there, and glad no one was hurt. We did some preliminary cleaning, then went to bed.

Monday: S went to his conference, and I went to Edeka to get a refill of this fabulous cleaner:


...and then ran a few loads of dishes and systematically wiped as much soot off of things as I could. When S came home, he vacuumed some of the shelves that needed dead bugs vacuumed before cleaning. The kitchen ended up cleaner than it had been in years, and S found someone to fix the stove later that week.


The flight home was much less exciting...

Wednesday, July 30, 2025

A photo per day, 2025 edition

This worked well in 2024, so here's the 2025 edition.

May 31-June 2: Malerweg

June 3: Dresden Semperoper with the Duke/UNC/NCSU research abroad cohort. We saw a staged performance of Handel's oratorio Saul. It was full of intrigue and politics and worked impressively well staged. We had seats near the ceiling, thus the stairwell photo.


June 4-6: Malerweg

June 7: Berlin with the research abroad cohort. On Saturday, we met up (because they used mass transit and I walked) at the East End Gallery (Berlin Wall).


June 8 morning: free time in Berlin with family--H, S, V, and R. We walked up Teufelsberg, a non-natural hill in the Grunewald district of Berlin built after WW2 from 98 million cubic yards of rubble and debris. It's located in the former West Berlin, and during the Cold War, the US built a large intelligence-gathering "listening station" on top. The station is no longer used and has become a street-art gallery, with almost every available surface covered in murals.


June 8 afternoon: Tour of the Reichstag with the cohort. 


June 9 morning: Our last day in Berlin. The cohort took a boat tour rather than join S and me for the long walk we invited everyone on. Ostensibly we were looking for the graves of the brothers Grimm, but we only got as far as the graves of the Familie Mensdelssohn in the Dreifaltigkeit cemetery in Kreuzberg. (We also visited the gravestone of grandpapa Moses Mendelssohn, the 18th-c. philosopher and theologian whose writings became central to the "Jewish Enlightenment" of the 18th and 19th centuries; he's buried in Berlin's oldest Jewish cemetery, which was desecrated during the Nazi era--to the point that his is the only gravestone still erect, but not in its original location).

R to L, Wilhelm Hensel, Fanny Mendelssohn Hensel, Felix Mendelssohn...

June 9 afternoon: We had a little time to kill before our train, so zipped through the Alte Nationalgallerie with a few of the students. We happily revisited many of the Friedrich paintings that we had seen in New York, but the photo of the day goes to "Liszt am Flügel" (1840) by Joseph Danhauser, one of two music-historical paintings I recognized from across a room and of which could immediately say, "hey, that's George Sand swooning while Liszt plays the piano!" The other painting was "hey, that's Frederick the Great playing the flute!," a.k.a. Flötenkonzert Friedrichs des Großen in Sanssouci [1852] by Adolph von Menzel. I coulda sworn both paintings graced covers of Dover scores that I owned, but I can't identify which scores.

Liszt and his adoring fans...

June 10: Back in Dresden. I needed a walk, so  built a loop route to the Loschwitz neighborhood via the Blaue Wunder, and for the sake of thoroughness, included the recently enhanced gravesite of Caspar David Friedrich at the Trinitatisfriedhof.


June 11: Before meeting up for a farewell gelato with the students (they were staying on, but faculty advisors, including S, were leaving the next morning), we had some open time, so made a too-short visit to the Albertinum. The photo below is of the work Palianytsia (2022) by Ukrainian artist Zhanna Kadyrova. The work is made from sliced river stones. The accompanying label says the stones "become a symbol of welcoming culture and community in leaden times." It also notes that Russians' inability to pronounce the word Palianytsia correctly "became a phonetic identifier to distinguish 'friend' from 'foe.'" (And if you Google the word Palianytsia, you'll learn it's both a hearth-baked bread and the name of a Ukrainian turbojet drone missile system developed by Ukraine during the Russian invasion.)      

Palianytsia (2022) by Ukrainian artist Zhanna Kadyrova 

June 12: Early morning train home to Steinebach. On the way, we planned a layover of a few hours to visit Bamberg, nicknamed "Franconian Rome" because like Rome, it has seven hills.


June 13: first day back in Steinebach, and we were homebodies, walking no farther than to the grocery store and back. The new Edeka opened a year or two ago, so now instead of walking 3-4 mile RT to the old Edeka near Etterschlag, we only need to walk 1.6 miles RT.

Fence shadows in Kukuksheim, en route to EDK

June 14: Bastille Day = "No Kings Day" for over 5 million mostly USAmerican protestors mostly in the U.S. but also internationally. On our way to join a couple hundred protesters in Munich, we walked past the Weiße Rose Memorial at Geschwister-Scholl-Platz 1 at the Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität, and thought about the difference between showing up for protests every once in a while vs. risking everything to fight Fascism.


June 15: annual hike to Andechs. S biked, and we met up for Brez'n, Obazda, and Sprudel.


June 16: Strava says I went to the grocery store again. I was trying to figure out if I had allergies or a cold, and didn't take a single photo.


June 18: Hallbergmoos to Freising. Afterward, I took trains to Seeshaupt, then walked to Bernried to meet up with S and friends from his college days in Hamburg. Afterward, S and I walked to Tutzing.


June 19-20: No photos. It was a cold, not allergies. 

June 21: Dinner at Sepperlwirt, followed by a walk "the long way home" to visit Favorite Lone Tree on a Hill, which is nowhere near Sepperlwirt.



June 23: A doozy of a cold. I think I spent most of the day in bed.


June 25-27: What? No photos? I walked around the Wörthsee, and to Herrsching in the rain, and S and I walked to Eching before catching a bus to Puppi's for Kaffee und Kuchen and homegrown Johannesbeeren and Stachelbeeren.

June 28-July 12: Rorschach to Guendlischwand 

July 13: We had just walked 170 miles across Switzerland, so we took it easy. We bought groceries, and walked to Gasthaus Dietrich for dinner. We used to eat there regularly with Helen, but management changed after her death, and no one's really felt like it could compete with their memories of it. But it was pretty much how I remembered it, and we were rewarded with a rainbow over the house next door. 


July 14: We walked 5 miles to Stegen to meet family for dinner. Before the deluge, and before discovering the restaurant was closed, there were wild raspberries on the trail through the woods to Inning.


July 15: H, S, and V visited us from Berlin. More rain, but also a walk to the lake and sailing the model boat until the wind became too strong.


July 16: Dachau

July 17: Our German Romanticism summer ended with a two-day connect-the-dots walk from Lindau-Insel to Rorschach. The Rules of Walking permit virtual and real ferry connections, but we figured we'd make a land connection too. Our destination for the first night was Bregenz, where we enjoyed a modernized rendition of Der Freischütz: Carl Maria von Weber meets Gilbert and Sullivan meets Monty Python meets the Beaver Queen Pageant. I might have been the only audience member laughing out loud at the giant sprinklers during the lesbian dream sequence with diving mermaids. Check out the preview to appreciate how crazy the interpretation was (see also this behind-the-scenes video on stunts and staging).

Clap clap bravo clap brava clap clap clap bravo clap clap

July 18: From Bregenz, we continued on to Rorschach--a much more varied walk than the previous day's.

Uh, sure, that's a potato...

July 19: We walked to Puppi's for Kaffee und Kuchen with G, M, and M'. M' is heading to the U.S. this fall for a year abroad.


July 20: S biked and I walked to Herrsching, and we met up for gelato.


July 21: I made latkes for R and R'. On their way out, R' found a feather and told me I should save feathers for her (for what purpose, I don't know). It occurred to me that in ~550 miles of walking and hiking this summer, I hadn't noticed any feathers. S and I went for a walk afterward, and voilà...


July 22: We had some gummint business to take care of in Starnberg. Afterward, I walked to Tutzing. I've now walked the entire length of the western shore of the Starnbergersee. Tutzing has a promenade named after Johannes Brahms, who lived there for four months in the summer of 1873 while he was avoiding visiting Clara Schumann, with whom he was having a spat.


July 23: One more visit with Puppi that involved some contortions with train and bus schedules, followed by a lovely evening walk as far as Inning and then a bus home.


And that was that...